Mary’s County Oyster Festival and National Shucking Competition. A few weeks after that trip, I would head to the opposite side of the Chesapeake, to Leonardtown, Md. My visit to Chincoteague last September was part of an exploration of an American tradition rich in history and lore. Back then, before fish-farming became popular, the land itself functioned as a sort of natural pier for its residents who wrangled clams and oysters and terrapin, as thick as treasure, from beds in the brackish water. As I made my way across, I thought of how, in centuries past, skiffs drifted through the region’s bays, channels and coves in search of shellfish. On the marsh-bound causeway to Chincoteague Island on Virginia’s Eastern Shore, cars and their drivers seemed to float across the still waters of Queens Sound.
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